Sinuous vertical walls reflected the Elwha's emerald green water. Dramatic and beautiful, yes, but unsettling. Weren't we supposed to be done with the gorges? My research—intentionally incomplete (isn't the mystery [...]
I was dropped at a vacant beach below Horseshoe Dam. My companions rolled away toward the mad, overcrowded world beyond the hills while I slid into a clear, cold river. [...]
Getting from Camp Verde to Beasley Flats was a slog. A large part of the problem was the beer barge I'd created out of a once svelte backcountry craft. With [...]
About 10 miles below Sycamore Canyon, water began coming out of the river. Not that it had much to spare at 70 cfs. Nonetheless, the first siphon ditch came near [...]
It first entered my expeditions notebook as "Verde: Source to Sink," as in, kitchen sink. That's where the Verde goes; into the Salt River and one mile later into canals, [...]
November: Turkey, Football, Fall colors, but whitewater? Not really. Okay, sure, maybe back East you could paddle. The Pacific Northwest? Yes, but be ready to brave the cold short days. [...]
Most great rivers reach a place on their journeys where culture and geography connect; creating a place of tangible power imbued with human reverence, and signaling a clear transition in [...]
The old hatchery below Iron Gate Dam was quiet, as was the river bank that was once crowded with anglers. With no dam to gather migrating fish at the end [...]
Below the whitewater of Hells Corner, the Klamath placidly enters farm country. For the past 107 years, it then entered Copco Reservoir. No more; we noticed our arrival at the [...]
The Klamath at Keno Dam is warm, algae-filled, and stinky. Three of us launched on the still waters of Lake Euwana—the reservoir behind the dam—to get a small sense of [...]
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